革作小百科
皮革認識系列-牛巴戈&瘋馬皮
牛巴戈及瘋馬皮也是討論度極高的皮種
許多新手無法判斷何謂牛巴戈、何謂瘋馬皮
此二種皮革
在皮件風格設計裡，屬於比較粗曠的應用
在時尚袋包裡出現的機率較低
男包或中性包款倒是能強化風格
只是這兩種皮革的保養及防汙比較困難
也因此多數國際品牌較少出現此類皮革商品
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牛巴戈(NUBUCK)
- 譯自英文-磨砂皮
- 是一種頂級粒面牛皮，在粒面或粒面外部進行了打磨或拋光處理，使短蛋白纖維略微起毛，形成天鵝絨般的表面。
- 它耐磨損，可以是原色或彩色的。
- 磨砂類似於絨面革，但是從生皮的外側製成的，使其具有更大的強度和厚度以及更細的顆粒，通常比反絨革更昂貴，必須著色或染色很深才能掩蓋打磨和壓印處理。
- 磨砂皮的特性與苯胺皮革相似。
Nubuck (/ˈnjuːbʌk/) is top-grain cattle leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface. It is resistant to wear, and may be white or coloured.
Nubuck is similar to suede, but is created from the outer side of a hide, giving it more strength and thickness and a fine grain.It is generally more expensive than suede, and must be coloured or dyed heavily to cover up the sanding and stamping process.
Nubuck characteristics are similar to aniline leather. It is soft to the touch, scratches easily, and water drops darken it temporarily (it dries to its original color). Shoes and auto interior are of the most common commercial uses for this leather.
瘋馬皮(Crazy horse leather)
- 瘋馬皮革是通過在拋光和磨光的全粒面牛皮表面上塗佈上特定種類的油蠟而製成的。
- 該過程導致被處理區域的磨損改變其顏色。
- 質地的變化不僅是即時的，而且還可以隨著時間而有所變化
Crazy horse leathers are produced by applying a specific kind of wax to a full grain cowhide leather surface which has been buffed and smoothed out. This process results in the abrasion of the treated area changing its color. The transformation in its texture is not only an immediate one but allows it to change with time also, exhibiting an antique effect
想知道更多關於皮料資訊，請到【禾亞~革作小百科】搜尋更多相關文章，或到【活動/講座】中搜尋近期的課程
想實際觸摸上百種皮料、感受皮性，學習專業皮料知識【DM1時尚袋包工藝師】課程是最專業的選擇
- 撰文：ANDY張老師